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Jay & Jain's Live Blog
Odds and Ends from Our Travels
Wednesday, December 3, 2025
Sunday, November 30, 2025
Travel Story 5 by Jain
Zephyr Story Day 5 All Aboard
Saturday, November 29th
Our train was scheduled to depart at 2:43 p.m., but since it originated in Chicago—a full 24-hour journey away—we were surprised to learn it was on time again. Thanksgiving is the busiest time of the year for Amtrak and arriving on schedule is a real holiday miracle.
We kicked off the day with a hearty breakfast, well, ok yummy pastries at the popular local café Blue Bird, an old timey place with quiet reading nooks that had a cozy local vibe. It was satisfying enough to tide us over until dinner aboard the train.
After our so-called breakfast, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll along the riverwalk and around the railway station across the street from our hotel. The weather was brisk but dry, and the sun was out, making for a pleasant stroll.
Glenwood train station is a historic depot built in 1904 and fits into Glenwood old town character and gets my vote for the cutest train station I have ever been in. Ok maybe cute isn’t fitting but charming would be. As we board the train our cabin attendant Rita says, “You must be Mr. and Mrs. Gunsauls. Welcome aboard.” We are shocked!
After settling into our bedroom compartment, we made our way to the cafe car for a glass of vino. The café is closed with a sign that reads, “Be back in ten minutes.” We sat down and started playing cards. When the café attendant returns, she lays down the rules, “No playing cards, no games, no eating unless it is food purchased from the train, no this and no that, no nothing.” Then she says, “And now get in line if you want to buy a drink or food.” I started laughing cause just her going berserk has probably increased the Amtrak liquor sales.
At dinner we are seated with Julie and her mom, Jeanette. Julie used to be a film production assistant in Hollywood but now has a job with the City of Roseville as a location scout, securing film locations. They are both fun and entertaining and we enjoyed the time discussing Hollywood stars.
The next 2 and a half hours, Glenwood Springs to Green River are the top highlights of the entire Zephyr route. Amtrak partners with the National Park Service volunteers that dish out stories and fun tidbits and make the trip landscapes rolling past your window more interesting. On this trip the only narration was made by fellow passengers in the form of “ooh’s” and “ahh’s”.
While we wouldn’t see Provo or Salt Lake City in daylight, we did see clear views of Winnemucca and the Nevada landscape during the morning. Jay bravely took a shower and said the water was hot, the controls were a little tricky but a satisfying experience. I opted just to lay in bed and drink my coffee.
Our arrival in Reno was originally scheduled for 9:13 a.m. We rolled in at 8:45. Another pleasant surprise. All in all, it was a short trip—but one that left us feeling relaxed and refreshed.
Thank you for coming along.
Saturday, November 29, 2025
Travel Story 4 by Jain
Reno to Glenwood Springs All Aboard Story
Friday November 27th
We had an entire day to soak in the charm of Glenwood Springs. The town exudes a laid-back, welcoming vibe, blending historic character with modern comforts. Nestled among dramatic canyon walls, lush forests, and snow-capped peaks, it’s a stunning year-round destination, and looks like it could be straight out of a postcard. Since it was Thanksgiving week, you would think the town would be bustling, but it isn’t… no snow here yet.
Glenwood Springs is famous for its geothermal hot springs, including the Iron Mountain Hot Springs and the iconic Glenwood Hot Springs Pool which is about 2 blocks long! The town is known for its mineral-rich waters that promise relaxation and rejuvenation. We passed on soaking in the miracle waters this time, although we both could use some rejuvenation, and took a short stroll to one of the town’s top attractions: Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park.
Perched high atop Iron Mountain, this mountaintop amusement park offers a mix of adrenaline rides, cave tours, and a scenic gondola ride with sweeping views of the valley below. We skipped the thrill rides—fast speeds, sudden drops, and dizzying spins have never been our thing. For the record, though, we do have a soft spot for Ferris wheels. As for the caves, well, I dabbled. Years ago, we toured the Lake Shasta Caverns, and I thought they were… fine. But everything changed after our visit to the Wieliczka Salt Mine near Kraków, Poland. That experience involved descending deep underground via a long narrow staircase and returning to the surface in a cramped elevator. With crowds piling up and a 30-minute wait to ascend, I felt a wave of discomfort—uneasy, out of control. That’s when it hit me: I might have a touch of claustrophobia. Some would say, “you think? lol.”
The gondola ride, here, was a short five-minute glide, but the crisp mountain air and sweeping views made it feel like a tranquil escape from reality. At the summit, we wandered into a souvenir shop and a snack bar offering cold brews and classic bar bites. The local favorite? Fried pickles buried under a mountain of aioli. Supposedly, they were tart, lightly breaded, sizzling hot, and unapologetically greasy—perfect for some, perhaps. But for me, the mere idea of mayo-soaked pickles, and or getting stuck in a cave, that’s a recurring nightmare.
From there, we hiked up a half mile, steep path to Doc Holliday’s Grave in Linwood Cemetery. The hike was totally worth it for the panoramic views of the valley and the chance to pay our respects to one of the West’s most legendary gunslingers, Doc Holliday.
Doc Holliday was a Dentist, gunslinger, gambler and came to Glenwood Springs for its thermal waters to treat his tuberculosis. He died here at the age of 35. Although we saw his grave marker on our hike, local history acknowledges that he probably was never buried there but is in Potter’s field, adjacent to the town’s cemetery because he was penniless when he died.
After descending, we rewarded ourselves at the Stoneyard Distillery, a local gem that crafts spirits using beet sugar. The tasting room is rustic and welcoming and the cocktails are creative and bold—perfect for a midday break.
In the evening, we notice that the town is now bustling. Restaurants are now busy, sidewalks full. People have come in for the annual historic Colorado Hotel Christmas Lighting. The lively storied heart of the city, restaurant row is packed shoulder to shoulder. Even the homeless guy we saw all day long with his suitcase locked on a bike stand looked uneasy.
Glenwood springs, despite its reputation as a picturesque mountain town of 10,000, seems to face the challenges of a big city. We have seen examples of this all day long. The crime rate is 73% higher than the average city in the US probably due to the influx of visitors and the opportunity for theft and has a growing homeless population due to the rising costs of housing and living.
It seems welcoming and inviting, has a small town feel but attracts crime and homelessness, a paradox.
Our train leaves today at 2:35p.m.
Friday, November 28, 2025
Travel Story 3 by Jain
Reno to Glenwood Springs All Aboard Story
Thursday November 26th
Happy Thanksgiving
In the early morning hours, we quietly passed through Provo, Utah. About an hour before arriving in Helper, we wake to daylight breaking over the landscape. It's breathtaking. The town of Helper, Utah, gets its name from the steep mountains that surround it. Trains once required additional "helper" engines to climb these formidable grades, a testament to the rugged beauty of the terrain.
We woke around 5:30 A.M. Jay climbed down from his bunk to fetch us a cup of coffee. On the Zephyr, coffee and hot tea are always available near the sleeping car attendant’s station—a small but cherished luxury of train travel. You could ask your attendant to bring it to your room, of course, but timing that request can be tricky. There’s something special about staying tucked under the covers, watching the world roll by through the window as the first light spills over the Rockies—steam rising from a hot cup of coffee in your hands.
Before heading to breakfast, I decided not to to tackle the shower. I’m forever haunted by a particular train memory when I meant to flush the toilet but accidentally hit the shower button instead. A jet of water blasted out, soaking half of me. It was quite a surprise to say the least. Train showers are their own brand of chaos. Some folks wait until the train stops at a station; some don’t take a shower at all I suspect. But honestly, the bathroom is so cramped there’s nowhere to fall anyway.
No reservation is needed for breakfast aboard the Zephyr. You can enjoy a continental or full hot breakfast in the dining car. The menu features made-to-order three-egg omelets, fluffy pancakes, golden French toast, and all the classic sides—including crispy bacon.
As you dine, the train glides past one of the route’s most breathtaking highlights: Green River. It is high desert at its best.
Dining in the train’s dining car treats you to sweeping views of dramatic cliffs, winding canyons, and brilliantly colored rock formations. As the sun rises, the river below glistens in the golden light, offering a truly unforgettable start to the day. We are seated for breakfast with a software engineer and his wife, a cancer research technician. They are a fun couple, young, pleasant and most importantly, normal. After breakfast, we eagerly headed to the observation car, the prime spot to take in the most breathtaking scenery of the entire journey.
Beyond the Green River, the route continues toward Grand Junction, marking one of the most scenic highlights of the Zephyr’s path. Here, the landscape transforms into the high desert expanse of Grand Mesa—the world’s largest flat-topped mountain—surrounded by striking red rock canyons and rugged natural beauty. We arrived at our destination Glenwood Springs on time. Unbelievable. Our car attendant explained the train is usually on time during holidays, because there is less freight train traffic due to scheduling and contract negotiations.
We’re staying at the Maxwell Anderson Hotel, a cozy, comfortable spot right across the street from the train station. Just as promised, it’s a charming historic gem nestled in the heart of town. Since today is Thanksgiving, we’re headed out for a walkabout in search of turkey. We noticed that the Hotel Colorado Hotel is hosting its annual Thanksgiving buffet, but at $100 per person—and considering I’m not a fan of buffets—we wanted to explore other options. On our walkabout, we found most restaurants are closed for the holiday. We found the bar inside Hotel Colorado is serving Turkey dinners for $38. We are all in.
Tomorrow, we will explore Glenwood Springs.
Thursday, November 27, 2025
Travel Story by Jain
Reno to Glenwood Springs All Aboard Story
Wednesday November 26th
Arriving at Reno Amtrak station, I must admit, although the station itself holds a certain charm, the view from the platform is anything but scenic. In fact, it is ugly. The tracks lie deep in a trench—a consequence of a $282 million project completed in 2005 to lower the Union Pacific line through downtown Reno. While this effort successfully removed 11 dangerous grade crossings that once halted cars and pedestrians alike, it also buried the station beneath street level. Now, the platforms are flanked by stark concrete retaining walls, lending the place a bunker-like atmosphere.
Still, I can’t help but reminisce about the good old days when Jay and I visited Reno. My dad would remind us that my brother’s driving the train through town—maybe you’ll get to wave at him!” And we did, and others joined in because everybody always loves waving at the engineer. I suspect these days many tourists don’t even know the train goes through Reno.
The California Zephyr was scheduled to roll into Reno at 3:37 p.m. It left Emeryville (just shy of the Oakland Bay Bridge) this morning at 8:25 a.m. and pulled into Reno at 3:00 p.m.
That’s practically a miracle considering Zephyr’s legendary on-time rating of... wait for it... 33%.
Train delays often stem from the fact that freight trains dominate the tracks, leaving limited room for passenger service. Add unpredictable weather, ongoing track maintenance, and grade crossing incidents, and you've got a recipe for disruption.
Thinking about grade crossing incidents, my dad was always baffled by how little people understood about trains. He used to say, "They think I can just slam the brakes and stop 50 tons of steel. Even at moderate speeds, I need a mile or more to come to a full stop “.
Once aboard the train, we discovered our sleeper compartment — a cozy cube of dreams measuring a luxurious 7 feet by 7 feet. It’s basically a walk-in closet.
The couch moonlights as bunk beds, a sink the size of a cereal bowl and a window that offers sweeping views of trees, and cows. The bathroom is the size of an airplane lavatory and gives you the luxury of being able to sit on the toilet and take a shower lol. All and all, it has everything you need — and absolutely nothing you don’t. The train is not as crowded as we expected for a holiday. It was a pleasant surprise.
As we headed across the Nevada desert terrain we retreated to the observation car for a glass of wine. We see desert landscapes, distant mountain ranges and because it is around sunset there are dramatic skies. It is peaceful.
At dinner we are seated at a table for four. Communal seating is common. This is part of the classic train travel experience and encourages social interaction. Our table mates were from Reno. Catherine, the mom, and Zack her precocious 8-year-old son who, throughout the dinner played Rock, Paper and Scissors and shared the inner workings of the game Dungeons and Dragons. Whatever…
Dining on the train is kind of impressive. It is not reheated frozen meal or sandwich served at 30,000 feet. On the Zephyr train, chefs cook food instead of just defrosting and reheating it. At dinner we had a choice of salad or soup, followed by our choice of steak, chicken, pasta or salmon and then of course dessert. Afterall it is said a train ride without cheesecake or chocolate cake is just a commute. I can report our steak was o.k. but the white chocolate cheesecake was to die for.
After dinner we retreat to the bar car and have an aperitif. When we pull into Elko it is dark and see just a flicking of lights. It is time for bed, so we head back to our compartment and Jay to climbs up to the upper berth (after all he was a fireman) and besides I am afraid of heights. Overnight we will go through Salt Lake City and wake up in Utah.
Wednesday, November 26, 2025
All Aboard
Reno to Glenwood Springs All Aboard Story
Tuesday November 25th
We’re
officially on our way — choo-choo-ing our way from Reno to Glenwood Springs,
Colorado aboard Amtrak’s legendary Zephyr Route for Thanksgiving. Because
nothing says “holiday spirit” like rolling through the Rockies in a steel tube
full of strangers on the way to their holiday feast. It is a quick trip with just one night on the
train each way and two nights at Glenwood Springs.
Why
the train? Well, my dad and brother were “hog heads”. That’s old-school
railroad slang for engineers who wrangled the mighty steam locomotives, aka
“hogs.” Thanks to their hog-wrangling credentials with Southern Pacific, our
family got the golden ticket: free rides on SP passenger trains. So yeah, I
grew up riding the rails when I was young. And now? I still love train travel.
It’s got everything: scenery, food, drinks and people.
Meeting people on a train is definitely a
mixed bag. Some are the most interesting people you could ever hope to meet and
some well, are not. Being stuck with them rolling toward a destination
together, for better or worse, is always an experience.
The
Zephyr route has been declared by far the prettiest route in the United States.
While the complete route goes to and from San Francisco and Chicago spanning
over 2,400 miles, the stretch from Provo, Utah to Denver, Colorado travels
through the Rocky Mountains is the highlight of the trip… hands down. We know because Jay and I did this trip in 2017,
when we took the train from Chicago to Reno.
We
remember when the train left Chicago, the terrain was flat and stayed flat for
hours. You see endless rows of cornfields and cows. Then there are more corn and more cows. If you
are lucky, you can spot an occasional tractor. Talk about America the Beautiful, and its
fruited plains, you see it firsthand. Just
about the time you think the world is really, really flat… BAMM, the train reaches
Colorado and hits you with its mountains. It is stunning.
We’re
stopping short of Denver at Glenwood Springs for Thanksgiving—because let’s be
honest, who chooses Denver when you could be sipping a glass of wine and
eating turkey in a cozy, historic town of 10,000 instead a metro jungle of
700,000?
Now,
this is why we like train travel: it’s scenic, comfy, and free of brake lights
and road rage. You sit back, relax, sip your drink and enjoy the ride. To be
fair—train travel also comes with its quirks. It’s usually pricier, slower, and
has a punctuality rating somewhere between “LOL and “in your dreams”.
We’re
kicking things off with a night at our beloved Peppermill Resort. I’ve got a
free night at the Peppermill. Which, as everyone knows, is code for “you
already paid for it with your money, points and loyalty.”
From
the Peppermill, it's a short taxi ride to the Amtrak station in downtown Reno.
Once alive with slot machines, vibrant nightlife, and nonstop entertainment,
the area now feels more like a faded backdrop from a casino-themed movie.
There's a lingering sense of melancholy and grit, with familiar faces loitering
nearby, adding to the edgy atmosphere.
See
you tomorrow all… Aboard time is 3:37 p.m.