Travel Story 3 by Jain

Reno to Glenwood Springs All Aboard Story

Thursday November 26^th

 

Happy Thanksgiving

 

In the early morning hours, we quietly passed through Provo, Utah. About an hour before arriving in Helper, we wake to daylight breaking over the landscape. It's breathtaking. The town of Helper, Utah, gets its name from the steep mountains that surround it. Trains once required additional "helper" engines to climb these formidable grades, a testament to the rugged beauty of the terrain.

 

We woke around 5:30 A.M. Jay climbed down from his bunk to fetch us a cup of coffee. On the Zephyr, coffee and hot tea are always available near the sleeping car attendant’s station—a small but cherished luxury of train travel. You could ask your attendant to bring it to your room, of course, but timing that request can be tricky. There’s something special about staying tucked under the covers, watching the world roll by through the window as the first light spills over the Rockies—steam rising from a hot cup of coffee in your hands.

 

Before heading to breakfast, I decided not to to tackle the shower.  I’m forever haunted by a particular train memory when I meant to flush the toilet but accidentally hit the shower button instead. A jet of water blasted out, soaking half of me. It was quite a surprise to say the least. Train showers are their own brand of chaos. Some folks wait until the train stops at a station; some don’t take a shower at all I suspect. But honestly, the bathroom is so cramped there’s nowhere to fall anyway.  

 

No reservation is needed for breakfast aboard the Zephyr. You can enjoy a continental or full hot breakfast in the dining car. The menu features made-to-order three-egg omelets, fluffy pancakes, golden French toast, and all the classic sides—including crispy bacon.

As you dine, the train glides past one of the route’s most breathtaking highlights: Green River. It is high desert at its best.

 

Dining in the train’s dining car treats you to sweeping views of dramatic cliffs, winding canyons, and brilliantly colored rock formations. As the sun rises, the river below glistens in the golden light, offering a truly unforgettable start to the day. We are seated for breakfast with a software engineer and his wife, a cancer research technician. They are a fun couple, young, pleasant and most importantly, normal. After breakfast, we eagerly headed to the observation car, the prime spot to take in the most breathtaking scenery of the entire journey.

 

Beyond the Green River, the route continues toward Grand Junction, marking one of the most scenic highlights of the Zephyr’s path. Here, the landscape transforms into the high desert expanse of Grand Mesa—the world’s largest flat-topped mountain—surrounded by striking red rock canyons and rugged natural beauty. We arrived at our destination Glenwood Springs on time. Unbelievable. Our car attendant explained the train is usually on time during holidays, because there is less freight train traffic due to scheduling and contract negotiations.

 

We’re staying at the Maxwell Anderson Hotel, a cozy, comfortable spot right across the street from the train station. Just as promised, it’s a charming historic gem nestled in the heart of town. Since today is Thanksgiving, we’re headed out for a walkabout in search of turkey. We noticed that the Hotel Colorado Hotel is hosting its annual Thanksgiving buffet, but at $100 per person—and considering I’m not a fan of buffets—we wanted to explore other options. On our walkabout, we found most restaurants are closed for the holiday. We found the bar inside Hotel Colorado is serving Turkey dinners for $38. We are all in.

 

Tomorrow, we will explore Glenwood Springs.