Tired Feet

Today, to celebrate Jay's birthday we went on a 3 hour walk from Menaggio to Rezzonico (It turned out to be longer). My dogs (feet) are tired. The walk... no it isn't a walk it should be called a hike, is officially called "The Antica Regina". This path was built by the Romans and in its day was an important connection on the west side of Lake Como and the Alpine passes. (Is there any place where the Romans didn't go?)

If you were to walk on the main road from Menaggio to Rezzonico it would be about 8 kilometers. But the suggested path is at least 16 kilometers leading you up and down mountains and through "hamlets" dotted along shores of Lake Como. On our hike we encountered a lot of stairs... no, not stairs as they are referred to in our guide map they call them "ascends". I hate the word "ascends", I much prefer the "descends" (but then again descending is tricky and hard on your knees). To be truthful I prefer straight path that is not slippery and occasionally passes by a local bar so we can rest and have a cappuccino.

This hike was not as perilous as our hike from Vernazza to Monterosso in the Cinque Terra yet it was definitely challenging. We figured we walked over 4 hours, so that alone takes its toll. Jay seemed to get his second wind probably due to that it was his birthday.  On our way we did see great views of the lake, villas, and a slice of local life. At one point we passed cows, donkeys, goats, sheep, chickens… and of course some mean looking dogs that were bred and raised with one purpose alone and that is to protect their villas. We saw people working in their yards, vegetable gardens, and just enjoying the sunshine. We passed iron mines, churches, bell towers, waterfalls, and creeks.  Because it is spring I couldn't possibly start to describe the multitude of plants, flowers in bloom we passed along the way. It was very pretty, and a good time of year for a hike.

Of course the highlight of the trip was passing the famous "Villa La Gaeta." built in the 20's and used as a location in the James Bond 2006 film "Casino Royale."  This is allegedly the place where last scene in movie was shot, and when Bond meets Mr. White and shoots him after uttering the words "Bond, James Bond" at least that's what it said in the guide map.  Somehow after Sean Connery, Roger Moore and Pierce Brosnan playing 007, to me the character lost his charm, so I never saw the movie in which Daniel Craig played James Bond.  Villa La Gaeta is impressive, its setting features stone castle building, beautiful park like grounds, fountains, private beach. The Villa now divided into apartments for rent. So if you want that real James Bond experience you can rent one and live the high life, drinking martinis shaken not stirred of course.

I just want to bring you up to date on the grumpy menopausal woman that runs this hotel. We did see her and it's true she hasn't smiled since 1968. Jay in his pleasant voice said "It looks like it's going to be a beautiful day, today"… She snarled, he went on saying "We are enjoying our room and view, thank you.". She just looked at him dead panned and said nothing. As we left we both wanted to say "Have nice day"… but I am afraid of what she would do. 

I ask Jay what he would like for his birthday dinner... pasta or pizza? He replies pasta.  Frankly, I am sick of both. Jay has a nice dinner and we return to our hotel for an after dinner drink... We now meet the man married to the "grumpy menopausal woman". He is no treat either, so it's a match made in Hell.  We leave Menaggio tomorrow for Varenna, a 7 minute boat ride away. We hear there are really nice people on that side of the lake and they have Mexican restaurants (I made that up... there is not a Mexican restaurant for 4,750 miles from here.) Wishful thinking on my part.